We've been on Bornean soil for a week now and I am convinced that someone has actually deposited me in Jurassic Park. Every time you step into the rainforest there's another flying beetle, a giant red millipede or a metallic moth with a body the size of a chipolata, not to mention the snakes, flying gekkos and spiders. All of which comes with a chattering, buzzing, chirping soundtrack that I thought only actually existed on a looped tape in the dinosaurs bit of the Natural History Museum. We were at Niah national park today, where you walk 3km or so through the forest to get to these absolutely immense caves where they once found a 40,000-year-old skull, and I honestly wouldn't have been surprised to see a stegosaurus come crashing through the trees. The caves were spectacular - also a bit like the Land that Time Forgot, and a prime example of the Bornean approach to health and safety precautions (i.e. don't really have any - the owner of that skull probably tripped over on a hike and never found his way out). The massive Great Cave took about 20 minutes to walk through, stretches of it in pitch darkness except for our ineffectual torches, and all the while we could hear most of the 3 million bats that live there flapping around above our heads. Like I said, it's an island full of monsters. Amazing though.